It really is just like a BBC miniseries

I have this image of Venice in my head based entirely on the BBC; most notably “Brideshead Revisited” and “Casanova”. Thanks to the BBC, I see Venice as a city of sun-dappled piazzas and coffee shops. Gondolas float by gently, steered by men in striped shirts with flat straw hats, sometimes singing. The sky is blue interspersed with a few fluffy white clouds, and the water is the most beautiful jade color. All the buildings seem to be held up by pure faith, and are in some quaint state of decay; delicate structures of plaster that you’re fairly sure can’t possibly be where people actually live.

It turns out Venice is exactly like that. Remarkable, really; Venice is the only city that actually fits the idealized view. And I didn’t see everything actually; completely missed the interior of the Doge’s Palace and the Accademia.

The recap goes something like this: Woke up before dawn was even an option, and got on a train for Venice; arrived around noon, checked into the world’s most “interesting” hostel, and decided to go searching. I had no idea what I was supposed to see in Venice, other than a vague notion of this “San Marco” place, and the Rialto. Luckily signs were everywhere to point me towards things. From the hostel to the Rialto I wandered through cramped streets, twisting with no great sense of where I was going. Every thoroughfare was packed with tourists, and I was fairly close to not enjoying this as much as I would have liked, and then I could see down one alley the edge of a really big bridge. Follow instinct, I discovered the Rialto; white and shining in the sun, even covered in shops and tourists, spanning the green waters of the canal. Clearly, I was going to be surprised.

From the Rialto visit I followed signs to San Marco. I emerged from the darkness of the alleyways into an open space, bathed in sunlight. And then there’s the Basilica, golden with mosaics, and edged in a variety of marbles. Next to the Basilica is the Doge’s Palace, and beyond is the open water, and a few islands.

I spent six hours simply walking to get a feel for the city, and when I finished for the day I was exhausted. I still had no idea what I would do for the remainder of my trip. As it turned out, I met some girls at breakfast on the second day who were studying in Barcelona, and originally from Chicago. We bonded over knowledge of neighborhoods, and I ended up spending the day with them. This happened mainly because I joined the three of them to share the cost of a gondola ride.

Yes, I was excessive and went for a gondola ride. Arguably the best decision ever. Rain was expected for the duration of my trip, but while we were on the canal, nothing but pure sunshine. Our gondolier, Marco, was friendly and informed, and I got the memory of being on the canal. After that we wandered the city, got a late lunch, did some Rialto shopping, and finally visited Santa Maria della Salute.

The third day only really counts as a half day, as I needed to get to the train station by mid-afternoon. I had originally thought to visit the Doge’s Palace, and actually go inside something. When I reached San Marco’s, I discovered the piazza covered in four inches of water. Yes, the rain I had been promised had delivered, but at night when I was safe in my bed. In another city, waking up to a sunny day after a rainy night would have little or no consequence. Venice is not “another city”; it’s below sea level, and so a night of rain leads to flooding. San Marco was covered, and the only way to the Doge’s Palace, or into the Basilica was on a series of platforms only four feet wide. You try shuffling several thousand tourists across a single platform path four feet wide, and not lose your patience. I gave up on my thought of the Doge’s. I managed the interior and museum of San Marco’s, but I think I will someday make it back to Venice, before it finally sinks. For that reason, I turned away from San Marco’s, wandered to the Rialto, and then found a quiet spot to enjoy the sunshine. Sunshine and spring weather has been in short supply of late, so simply sitting outside was lovely.

Just before I left I paused in the church next to the train station to let my feet rest, and my back recover from wandering with a heavy backpack. It was a lovely little baroque church, and wonderful to simply sit and enjoy the peace of the building. I’m somewhat burnt out on churches and museums at this point, so being able to sit with no need to admire some aspect of a building because someone else told me it was important was a bit of a treat.

I left Venice with some lovely memories, and a mind to return someday. I have just less than two weeks before I fly home, so the time for reflection has begun. Venice is my favorite Italian city, and the only one I think I would like to return to within the next few years, given the opportunity.