Czech Mate

The first thing to mention is that I finally have internet access on my laptop. I have since learned how dangerous this is. I have spent two days enjoying all the pleasures of easy access internet; which means having Top Gear-fests with my fellow fans. And of course, paying attention to my schoolwork. Or at least I will when this episode ends.

Other than that, I’ve done it. I mentioned before that I was going off for Spring Break some time ago, and I did. I got all the way to Prague and back to the Villa in one piece. And all by myself no less. That means: I got to an unfamiliar airport (Lugano, with two terminals), onto an unfamiliar airline (SwissAir), made a connection at another unfamiliar airport (Zurich, and they speak German!), and off a plane and through customs in the Czech Republic. And then, I got onto a bus (with a lovely bruise to show off), onto the metro, and to the hostel without incident. And after a week, I did it all in reverse.

This means that I can now mark down March 1, 2008 as one of my personal milestones. I flew alone for the first time in my life. I always assumed my first solo flight would be something domestic, perhaps from DC to Chicago, or other appropriately familiar flight. Instead, I went across country lines, three unfamiliar languages, and managed it all by my lonesome. Quite an achievement, if I do say so myself.

And so, I got to Prague. I met up, somehow, with a friend from high school, and another from that awful camp from last summer. That was wonderful; to get away from all the people I see everyday. I have no problems with the group I’m studying with, but there’s something so lovely in getting away from everything, and seeing people I haven’t seen in ages.

Then, a week in Prague; let’s get on with the list:

March 1: Got to the airport in Lugano some several hours early. So I walked around for ages, then finally the stepstool was brought around for us to board the plane. Had two flights that bounced around horribly, so I landed in Prague feeling rather ill. Got to the hostel, checked in, and then I walked around town, attempting to orient myself with the city.

March 2: Met up with friend, and promptly went out for walking tours. Watched the Astronomical Clock with its spinning apostles, and then got tour of Josefov, the old Jewish Ghetto. It turns out Prague had one of the biggest and most significant Jewish populations in Europe…up until World War Two. Bit of rain, so a lovely lunch of goulash to warm up. Wandered about a bit more, poking heads into museums, and reeling from the cost. I should take a moment to mention that the exchange rate during my visit was 1USD to 16KZ (Czech krona); and nothing was available for 16kz. I tried to keep my purchases under the 100kz mark as much as possible, unless absolutely necessary. Ah, the life of a student. In the evening, went on a ghost tour. Friend and I had some New Yorker tourists join us for that, which was no end of fun.

Aside: The guillotine was actually invented by the Scottish. I believe it was called “The Maiden”, but the concept of getting your head sliced off by a large blade powered by gravity originated with the Scots. The main feature of the guillotine was that it allowed the victim to lie down “comfortably”, while the Scottish version required that person to kneel. This became a topic of discussion with the New Yorker history teacher who seemed to know everything. I, however, have an interest in history, and especially the history of the British Isles. And I sometimes watch the History Channel.

After the Ghost Tour, which was far from terrifying, friend and I got appetizers at a TGIFridays. Now, before I am mocked for going to Central Europe and seeking the most American cuisine possible, understand that I have spent two months in Europe, and all I want is a cheeseburger, buffalo wings, and most of all, Chipotle. Those people responsible for fetching me from Dulles in May take note. Chipotle.

March 3: Out in the morning to do a tour of the synagogues we had glanced at the day before. This meant a full three hours plus of the synagogues, and the Ceremony Hall, and the Old Jewish Cemetery. At the cemetery friend and I were wandering behind a group of elderly French tourists, and followed by some student Italian tourists, both Jewish. Understandable, but then we got to the Rabbi Low grave. Rabbi Low is a bit of a big deal, and friend and I had come to that understanding. That didn’t mean we were prepared for the French OAPs to begin praying over the grave. Being gentiles, friend and I were suitably concerned, and feeling awkward. We finally took the chance to make our escape after dropping our stones on the Rabbi’s grave for luck. After our tour we paused for a Chinese lunch, then into the National Library to see the Gigas Codex, aka the Devil’s Bible. Really wonderful actually. I enjoyed that exhibit immensely. Then the overload of information set in, and it was time for a coffee break at the Charles Bridge. Bit more wandering and poling heads in shops before heading back to the hostel. We’d made some new friends, and the group of us went out for karaoke at some club, where camp friend found me.

March 4: Happy Birthday to Older Brother. The night had caught up with us, so high school friend and I took a later morning, and then promptly walked up a very steep hill to see Prague’s version of the Eiffel Tower and the Hunger Wall. We wound our way towards Nove Mesto (Old Town) through Mala Strana (Castle District). We paused for more Chinese for lunch, and then peeked at the Kafka museum gift shop and the Lennon Wall. We attempted to see the grave of Tycho Brahe, but the church he’s at is closed to visitors, and it was raining, and we were tired….so we went to see Sweeney Todd.

March 5: I wandered Nove Mesto for a bit, and then wandered across the Charles Bridge and up the hill to see Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in the world. Friend and I made it in time to watch the changing of the guard. Fun little ceremony, but would have been better without the snow. Recognizing how cold we were, friend and I retreated to the Lobkowitz Palace for lunch and touring the museum. The Princely Collection at the Lobkowitz Palace is a fairly new collection, recently returned to the Lobkowitz family, and put on display. It’s pretty good, with free audio tours for the public, but there’s something very odd about Americans telling you “Welcome to my family’s collection!” After that it was out to see St. Vitus Cathedral, and I’m fairly sure I saw the saint’s bones. The tower was closed, so we finally decided to head back to Nove Mesto. We had some time to kill, so friend and I visited the very good, however small, Mucha Museum. I really do like Art Nouveau, ever since visiting Glasgow with all its Charles Rennie Mackintosh stuff a few years ago. After that it was time to see some Black Light Theatre, and its production of “Faust”. Let’s just say, it was an adventure.

March 6: Busy day! Visited the train station to figure out tickets for friend, then back up to the castle to see St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane, and the National Gallery. After lunch at Lobkowitz, out and down into St. Nicholas Church, then back across the river to see the afternoon showing of “Don Giovanni” done by marionettes.

Aside: Prague is the city Mozart was living in when he completed his opera “Don Giovanni”. He was so enchanted by the city and its people; he rewarded them with the premiere of that opera. And now it’s done daily by puppets.

Ran some errands before friend popped of to Poland (how lovely that we can say things like that), and I was left to amuse myself.

March 7: Slept in a bit, as much as possible in a hostel setting, and then set off. I went back up to the Castle to try for the Old Palace, but it was closed for the day. Some great to-so was going on up there, with lots of big black cars with flags on them and extra soldiers, but it was far too cold to stick around. I finally left, paused for some coffee at Starbucks, and then climb the Astronomical Clock. Wonderful views of the city from up there, and a chance to see the tourists gather to watch the hour. After that I did some souvenir shopping, and finally went up to see the National Museum. Cute building, but the collection of dead animals was astounding. Not the best museum I’ve been too, but impressive to see that many dead things. And the room of fish only served to remind me that I really don’t see how people can eat those awful things. Got a dinner of Czech kielbasa off a roadside stand, and wound my way back home to pack.

March 8: Paused at the Easter markets on my way back to the airport, and then got home….somehow. And that was it really. I got to Prague, I had a relaxing trip. I saw wonderful people, a lovely city, and didn’t come home exhausted, like the Italy sojourn.